Sunday, July 25, 2010

Missing life in Luzern











My things are packed, the apartment (almost) clean and ready for handover.  I have been reflecting on what I am about to leave behind - not just the place but the lifestyle.  I feel truly lucky to have lived this life in this place and hope that I'm able to carry some of this back with me to combat the hustle and bustle of US life.  At the risk of changing my mind here are some things I will miss about my life here in Luzern:


* Walking to the corner bakery (and there is one on every corner) for a fresh bit of something something for breakfast
* Getting a spontaneous call from a friend to meet up for a drink in 10 minutes
* Sitting at outdoor cafes
* The 22% tax rate
* Farmers market twice per week
* Stunning views of an Alp ringed lake outside my office window
* My 10 minute walking commute to work
* My clean happy white loft apartment and it's fab roofdeck
* Church bells marking the hour
* Sundays where you are forced to just enjoy yourself because nothing is open except above mentioned outdoor cafes
* Good yogurt
* Good jam
* Having a working wood fireplace
* Walking on cobblestones every day
* Being surrounded by 400 year old painted buildings
 
* Christmas market
* Hearing alpenhorns and yodeling in one of the old plazas
* Pretzel bread
* Being no more than a 2 hour flight from all the most interesting places in Europe
* Being free of the hassles of car ownership
* Experiencing winter without wind chill factors or snow boots

* Catching sight of the little old lady in the red Pope car
* Summer festivals - especially Blue Balls

* Witnessing Fasnacht (but once is enough)

* And soaking in the natural beauty all around me every day.  When I moved here I promised myself I would never take it for granted.  And I never did.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

If you don't like the weather, wait a minute...

Like my fellow New Englanders I grew up claiming the most changeable weather on earth.  We New Englanders like to bemoan our erratic weather almost as much as we complain about our sports teams letting us down.  But New England has nothing on Switzerland for changeable weather.

In fact, the weather in Switzerland is not at all what you'd expect.  Let me guess... you're picturing sunny springs with wildflower covered rolling hills, cold snowy winters to put Boston to shame, Alpine peaks rising sharply white against a crisp blue sky, and a dreamy mild summertime where temps don't get much past 80.  Nothing could be further from the truth.

I was interested to discover that summer can be brutally hot here.  I moved here in June 06.  That July was one of the hottest on record with temps almost every day in the 90s.  But here's the thing.  On August 1 the temps dropped to 60 and rainy to the surprise and frustration of my poor sister who came to visit that day for 2 weeks vacation in August with only tank tops, shorts and bathing suits in her suitcase after my warnings that she would need to try to stay cool.  Off we went to the store to buy her a pair of jeans and a sweatshirt in which she sulked for the next 2 drizzly overcast weeks.

And I was prepared for winter.  I mean, I'm a Boston girl!  I had the heavy coat, the snow boots, scarves and gloves galore.  I was prepared for whipping winds stabbing me during my 15 minute walk to and from work.  By December I was tired of waiting for the cold to arrive and left layers at home so avoid getting to the office sweaty and red-faced. My snow boots 4 winters later have never been used - the most snow I've ever seen on the ground is maybe 3 inches and that is usually gone by morning latest. Temps hardly ever dipped below freezing.  40 degrees is pretty much the norm every day November till march.

While the winter temps were a happy surprise, gray skies were not.  It's amazing to me that you can go weeks and even months and pretty much never see the sun.  I had no idea how clear and sunny Boston winters are.  Frigid, but sunny.  Here it's like November in Boston all the time - gray, drizzly and raw.

And now the crazy unpredictability.  Yesterday I walked to work and my AC worked hard to keep me cool in the 90s weather with the sun pounding through my floor-to-ceiling windows.  Just as I was leaving work, a charcoal colored cloud rolled along one side of town and the rain started falling.  I barely made it home when the sky opened up and the rain started coming down sideways.  Wind howling, rain pelting.  Pretty soon it exhausted itself and I got my AC going and fell asleep only to be woken up hours later by a violent lightening storm and more pelting rain.  Today it's hot and sunny.  You learn to carry an umbrella even if there isn't a cloud in the sky.  And at least once a summer here, there is a hail storm with blueberry-sized hail.

So, you might be surprised to hear that summer in Switzerland can be just as hot as Boston and winters are never as cold. But whatever the weather, if you don't like it, just wait a minute and it's bound to change.

Friday, July 2, 2010

Beijing


Having gone to China for work I had a day upon arrival to run around and see some sites.  I had looked forward to it but hadn't really been quite prepared for what I was going to experience.

First, the Great Wall.  I am not sure what I was expecting, but it wasn't this.  Enormous, majestic, winding into the far distance.  The Great Wall was so much more than I could have imagined.  Pictures will have to tell the story.  It's hard to find words.

    
I arrived at 7:45 am when it was still a bit cooler.  I climbed stairs for almost an hour surrounded by Chinese families.  By the time I got near the top it was almost 9am and searing hot at 90 degrees.  I made some friends along the way - a couple of cute girls ditching their parents, and a few locals asking to have a photo taken with me (guess they don't meet many Westerners!)

   

Using every moment of my time I did a motorcycle sidecar tour of Beijing and a zip around the Forbidden City.  Beijing is an amazing mix of the hyper modern and the ancient.


But my favorite part of Beijing is the little old neighborhoods called hutongs.  Some are really old and run down, others are revamped and trendy.  All of them give you a feel what old Beijing might have been like.

Chinese food in China

  

I have to admit, I was NOT looking forward to the food in China.  I have heard horror stories of the dishes containing parts of animals that would never see a plate in any other country.  Chicken legs, fish eyes, scorpions, intestines, brains and on and on.  Based on advice from a co-worker I was determined to tell anyone taking me out for a meal that I was a vegetarian.  Meat? Who me?  No, not even fish.

Luckily my first meal out cured all my fears and I never looked back.  Who wouldn't love a restaurant called "Made in China"?  With a sense of humor like that you gotta give it a chance.  

The photo at the top is an amazing dumpling plate they serve.  The dumplings are handmade right in the open kitchen so you get to see the action.


 

This was pretty cool to watch.  Look at those cute little packets of happiness!  I followed the dumplings but real Szechuan chicken which was spicy and delicious!  

While in Beijing I was told repeatedly that you have to try Peking Duck.  Uh oh - food with a head!  Lucikly, I was guided to order the 1/2 duck which was - thankfully - sans head. 

Peking duck comes with several parts.  In the back of this photo you'll see a plate with marinated strips of the crispy skin.  Then the meat is in a really nice sauce (dish in front).  On the left you see a plate of julienned cucumber and some other veggie.  You wrap it all in a - well, a Chinese tortilla for lack of a better term - and dip it into a lovely soy sauce.  YUM!
And what would Chinese food be without dim sum!  We tried all kinds of dumplings.  Again - they make these by hand!  Some were pork, some shrimp, all delicious.


Moral of the story - don't be chicken of eating in China.